散履扬州,别样滋味||中英文对照

冬季访扬州，虽然人流稀疏，却别有一番情趣。一旦纷纷扬扬、漫空迷离，你大可与情人深入其中悠闲散步，想象自身是写意中的点睛人物。

雪晨，早茶有情怀

人们面对烟花三月，大多会向往巨商深宅院、飞絮瘦西湖，特别是东关古街，名店老号的招幌在暖风中摇曳。情侣依依、花伞簇簇……殊不知，冬季访扬州，虽然人流稀疏，却别有一番情趣。

扬州的冬雪历来少见。一旦纷纷扬扬、漫空迷离，你大可与情人深入其中悠闲散步，想象自身是写意中的点睛人物。扬州的早茶老店，很早便开门迎客，无论是冶春、锦春、富春还是共和春，都会与晨风共婵娟。你与她，为此放弃恋床、黎明即起，笑吟吟携手散步。

你们在扬州宾馆入住时，已从导游口中听到描述扬州早茶的一段曲调，恍然如食香缕缕袭来：“早上起来日已高，只觉心里闹潮潮，茶馆里头走一遭。拌干丝，风味糕，蟹壳黄，千层糕，翡翠烧卖，三丁包。清汤面，脆火烧，龙井茶叶香气飘。”

扬州人讲究“早上皮包水，晚上水包皮”，而“皮包水”就是吃早茶的真实形态，或理解为肚皮包着茶水，或诠释为早茶的“当家吃食”，譬如，面皮包着汤水的扬州包子。好萌好俏！

步入冶春茶社，最吸引你们视觉的，自然是临水曲栏、水雾萦绕、画廊迂回、绿色常在，食客悠然而来、飘逸而去，食境如诗如画。

既然以早茶的名义，品茶，自然要放在首位。于是，你与她目光相聚、会意一笑，先点了冶春“一枝独秀”的魁龙珠。在茶香缭绕中，扫视窗外御码头雨雪纷然，共话清代那位到处题刻的“风流帝”……

绿茶品啜通透，你们感到食欲大振。貌似“老扬州”，点了这家店最富招牌感的烫干丝、四色锅饼、冶春蒸饺、五丁包子。

扬州早茶的特点，是甜咸适中、不多不少、精致脱俗、留有余味。点缀火腿丝且豆香四溢的烫干丝，展现在扁舟形状的盘中。菜盘一隅，是一柄微型折扇。蛋青为扇面、笋丝为扇骨，胡萝卜丁为扇坠。在京城生长的你，很难想象，一款豆腐制品，能让厨师如此精心设置！同样酷爱文学的你与她，对此，不约而同地吟诵起童年、少年、青年生活在扬州、自称“我是扬州人”——朱自清那篇《说扬州》：“烫干丝，先将一大块方的白豆腐干飞快地切成薄片，再切为细丝，放在小碗里，用开水一浇，干丝便熟了；逼去了水，抟成圆锥似的，再倒上麻酱油，搁一撮虾米和干笋丝在尖儿，就成。说时迟，那时快，刚瞧着在切豆腐干，一眨眼已端来了。”背诵之后，你们细品烫干丝的滋味，谁也没过多品评。似乎在默默怀念着什么。

蒸饺上桌，精致且味美。同以采写为职业的你们，在下扬州之前自然做过功课。扬州有“富春的包子，冶春的蒸饺”之说。冶春的笋肉蒸饺，不但个头大，而且皮儿薄、馅儿多、汤汁浓，食之满口充溢香浓感，肥美而不腻。你忽然发现，她没有急于品尝蒸饺，目光凝聚在回廊悬挂的一幅书法。你随之扫视，竟然看到清代美食大家袁枚《随园食单》中，一段有关冶春蒸饺的描述……

清晨，在扬州早茶世界里“探春”，自然不能错过色味绝佳的五丁包子。这一点，你与她早有共识。让你们突发惊喜的是，当这款皮如纸、半透明、汤汁饱满，肉香凸现的包子上桌后，一曲评弹开场唱来，讲述的，恰恰是风流帝乾隆爷与五丁包的传说。

于是，你们随着唱词内容，任由漫漫追思，融入那情、那景……

那年，也是冬雪迷离的清晨。在扬州御码头下榻的乾隆帝，突然要求御膳早点须做到“五不过”：即“滋养而不过补，美味而不过鲜，油香而不过腻，松脆而不硬，细嫩而不过软”。这五味，囊括了补、鲜、香、脆、嫩。主辅料配比稍不均衡，便难达到“五不过”的要旨。

众御厨特请当地一位姓丁的名厨参与精心设计，将参丁、鸡丁、肉丁、笋丁、虾丁加工成馅，制成包子。乾隆尝后，大为满意，连连称赞。后来当地的百姓想到这种包子的馅心用的是五丁，首创厨师又姓丁，便叫它五丁包子。

一曲罢，包子滋味也尽情领略，你们再次扫视窗外，雨雪已远、画舫轻移，晨阳粉嫩。在扬州“吃文化”，莫非可超越季节、超越时空？

个园，堆石多意境

扬州虽美，但没有真正意义上的山。散履闲游，总感觉少了峰峦之辽阔、起伏之苍翠。这等现实，与一江之隔的——镇江，形成视觉落差。好在定居于此的古人，精心设计、移花接木，补上这一缺憾。

古时，聪慧者创意下隆起的“山”，便是精致院落之内的假山。留下的绿，便是画廊幽径之侧的竹丛。如果说，镇江市引以为傲的南山、茅山、宝华山……是衣冠鲜亮、姿容俊朗的儒将，那扬州市的竹园、何园、听雨书屋……便是举止温润、摇扇谈笑的儒商。当年，那些功成名就者，宁肯舍弃帝都那繁华街市、豪华府邸，也腰缠十万下扬州，依恋小院深深，陶醉波光竹影，真的会享受人生。

我恋扬州。绝非瘦西湖那画舫朱亭、二十四桥，而是扬州的竹与石。

或连缀成片、或形单影只的竹，与大写意般的石景互动，堪称佳配。

其实，假山这个词，有失偏颇。因为，堆砌成景、以“山”称谓的石块，是由峰峦峭壁中精选而来，尽管是“乾坤大挪移”，也是广义的山。恰如瘦西湖之水引自江河，岂可以“假湖”之名称谓？

山石与竹影，是扬州城的灵魂。阳春三月、我迎着花香絮舞，徜徉在扬州古街。醉意悠然间，抬望眼，巧遇个园，于是，一脚踏入。

个园的“个”，既是竹字半边，也因翠竹顶部呈3片绿叶，以自然之态形成“个”字。竹影印于白墙间，也是一片片“个”字。个字，另一个含义，隐喻园中半景为竹。 这类精巧的园名，或许，只有在江左烟霞丽景中可见一二。

园景另一半，自然是石。嘉庆年间，扬州这片最具个性、凸显风雅的名园，被盐商翘楚选为颐养胜地。院内幽静处的多类珍贵名竹，值得品味之处，不在于植物本身价值，而是在于创意设景的奥妙。

悠闲踱步，来到水景之畔的画廊中品茶。缕缕茶香，从精美的镂窗飘移到曲径边的竹丛深处，随着轻风弄叶的低吟升华了。小院深深，舒缓流动的是历史文脉，留下的是超逸哲思。

临窗品茗，随春风吹皱的涟漪放眼，见太湖石垒就的假山，潇洒立于碧池内。顶部摇翠、底部苔藓。扬州的叠石艺术，强调的是独特意蕴。其形状包括皱、漏、瘦、透、秀、丑。我对“丑”字略有不解，试探着问询品茶老者。老者朗笑，用合拢的折扇指着池中一座山石问：“你看那座假山美不美？它像个什么字？”我凝神细看，原来正是个“丑”字。老者说，美即丑，丑即美，关键在人的视觉。我听后陡生一种感悟，此时此刻，手中绿茶尽管色淡，一番感悟却浮上心头。

园中假山山景分为4板块，以四季分布。含哲理、意趣深的是秋山。这座以红褐色黄山石堆叠而就的山景，据说是石涛和尚遗构。仔细端详，确有几分石涛画黄山的神韵。穿越秋山的过程，恍若人生坎坷之路！须上下盘旋，左顾右盼。有时，明明看似通途、又似捷径，于是兴冲冲走去，却不料碰壁折返。有时看似尽头、无路可行，大胆冲去，竟然别有洞天，竟然直通“山巅”。春光明媚下的石壁，镌刻一口诀：“通而不通，不通则通”或云“大不通小通，明不通暗通”。我认真咀嚼一番，感叹寓意深远。

走出个园，山石竹影依然萦绕于心境。维扬之美，在乎她的内蕴。

A different taste of Yangzhou

Author  Feng Xinsheng (Beijing)

Translator  Jin Zi(Beijing)

A morning covered in snow; morning tea  in Yangzhou with feelings

In the face of fireworks in March, most of them will aspire to the giant merchants’ houses and fly to the West Lake, especially the ancient streets of Dongguan. The famous old restaurant’s signatures sway in the warm wind. The couples are enigmatic and the umbrellas are clustered... As everyone knows, the visits to Yangzhou in the winter are not interesting, although the crowds are sparse.

Winter snow in Yangzhou has always been rare. Once there are lots of people, you can go deep into a leisurely walk with your lover. Imagine yourself as the key figure in freehand brushwork. The old tea shop in Yangzhou opened its doors very early. No matter whether it was Yechun, Jinchun, Fuchun or Gonghechun, it would have been with Juanfeng. You and she, for this reason, abandoned the bed of love and dawn, and smiled and walked hand in hand.

When you were staying at the Yangzhou Hotel, you had heard from the tour guide a tune that described Yangzhou's morning tea. It was like a food fragrant soup: "The morning is getting high, and I feel like I am in the middle of my heart. The tea house goes inside. Silk, flavor cake, crab shell yellow, layer cake, jade dumpling, three packs, broth noodles, crispy fire, Longjing tea aroma."

Yangzhou people pay attention to "morning baotou water, night water foreskin," and "blanket water" is the real form of morning tea, or understood as the belly wrapped in tea, or interpretation of the morning tea, "eat", for example, dough wrapped in soup Yangzhou steamed buns. It's so cute!

When you enter Yehei Tea House, you are most attracted to your sight. Naturally, it is surrounded by water, water mist, galleries, and greens. Diners come idly and gracefully, and the food scene is picturesque.

Since tea is used in the name of morning tea, it should naturally be placed first. So, you and her eyes met and smiled. The first point was made by Que Longzhu, who was one of the "best of all". In the lingering tea scene, the snow and snow at the Imperial Wharf outside the window sweeps away.

Green tea tastes transparent and you feel appetite. Looks like "old Yangzhou", ordered the shop's richest sign of the sense of hot dry silk, four-color pan cake, Yechun steamed dumplings, five-bamboo steamed buns.

The characteristics of Yangzhou morning tea are sweet and salty moderate, not much more, refined and refined, leaving a good aftertaste. Embroidered dry silk with ham and bean filling is displayed in the shape of a flat boat. The tray is a miniature folding fan. Egg blue is a fan, bamboo shoots are fan bones, and carrots are fan pendants. Growing up in the capital, it's hard to imagine a tofu product that allows the chef to set it so carefully! Similarly, you and the love of literature, invariably, pick up childhood, youth, youth living in Yangzhou, claiming to be “I am Yangzhou”—Zhu Ziqing’s “Say Yangzhou”: “Dry and dry, first The bulk of the white bean curd quickly cut into thin slices, and then cut into filaments, placed in a small bowl, poured with boiling water, dried silk will be cooked; forced to go to the water, into a cone like, then fall The soy sauce was soaked with dried shrimps and dried bamboo shoots at the tip. It was too late to say it. It was just simmering in the dried bean curd, and one eye was already in the mouth.” After reciting, you savored the product. The taste of silk, no one has too many tastings. It seems to miss something in silence.

Steamed dumplings serve the table, delicate and delicious. Those of you who used to write as a professional have done their homework naturally before going down in Yangzhou. Yangzhou has "Fuchun buns and Yechun steamed dumplings." Yechun's bamboo shoot steamed dumplings are not only big heads, but also have thin skins, thick fillings, and thick soups. The mouthfuls of food are full of fragrant, plump but not too greasy. You suddenly discovered that she did not rush to taste steamed dumplings and gazed at a calligraphy hanging from the cloister. You swiftly scaned and saw a description of the Zheng Ye steamed dumplings in Yuan Mei's Food with the Garden in the Qing Dynasty.

In the early morning, in the "spring exploration" of the Yangzhou morning tea world, nature can not miss the excellent five-dipping steamed buns. This point, you and her have a long consensus. To surprise you, when this skin-like paper, translucent, full of broth and meaty buns came on the table, a pop-up singer sings and narrates, it is precisely the Merry Emperor and the Wuding. The legend of the bag.

So, with the content of the lyrics, you let the long-running thoughts merge into the situation, the scene...

That year was also the early morning when winter snow was blurred. The Emperor Qianlong who stayed in Yangzhou’s Royal Docks suddenly demanded that the imperial diet should be “five but not overdue” as soon as possible: that is, “nourishment without oversupply, deliciousness without over freshness, oily incense without being tired, crunchy but not hard, tender and not too soft”. The five flavors cover the make-up, fresh, fragrant, crisp and tender. If the ratio of main and auxiliary materials is slightly uneven, it will be difficult to achieve the essence of “five but nothing”.

The royal kitchen specially invited a local chef named Ding to participate in the elaborate design. The dice, chicken, diced meat, bamboo shoots and shrimp were processed into stuffing to make buns. After Qianlong tasted, he was greatly satisfied and repeatedly praised. Later, the local people thought that the filling of the steamed bun used five-dimensions. The first cook named Ding, it called it a five-bun.

A strike, buns also enjoy the taste of taste, you sweep the window again, the rain has been far away, the paintings move lightly, the morning sun pink. In Yangzhou, “eating culture” is it possible to surpass the season and beyond time and space?

Garden, rocky landscape

Although Yangzhou is beautiful, there is no real mountain. If you go on a leisure tour, you will always feel the vastness of the peaks and the undulating greenness. This reality, and the separation of a river - Zhenjiang, forming a visual gap. Fortunately, the ancient people who settled here carefully designed, moved flowers, and made up for this deficiency.

In ancient times, the "mountain" that was created by the intelligent people was the rockery within the exquisite courtyard. The green that remains is the bamboo grove on the side of the path to the gallery. If you say that Nanshan, Maoshan, and Baohuashan, which are proud of by Zhenjiang City, are bright, handsome and elegant, then Zhuzhou, Heyuan, and Heyushufang in Yangzhou are gentle and fanciful. Laughing Confucian businessman. In those years, those who became famous were willing to abandon the prosperous downtown of the capital, luxury residences, and tangled up under Yangzhou. When they were attached to a small courtyard, they were deeply intoxicated, and they would really enjoy life.

I love Yangzhou. It is not the Shouxi Lake that painted Zhu Ting and the 24 Bridge, but the bamboo and stone in Yangzhou.

Or a piece of bamboo, or a single bamboo, interacts with a large freehand stonescape.

In fact, the word rockery is biased. Because the stones that are piled up as scenery and named “mountain” are selected from the peaks, cliffs, and peaks, they are also “broadcasting of heaven and earth” and are broad mountains. Just as the water of the Slender West Lake is drawn from rivers, what can the name of "false lake" be?

Rocks and bamboo shadows are the soul of Yangzhou City. In the spring of March, I greet the flowers and dance in the ancient streets of Yangzhou. Drunk leisurely, eye-catching, met a garden, then, one foot into.

The "one" of the two gardens is not only the half of the bamboo but also three green leaves on the top of the bamboo, forming the "all" in the natural state. The bamboo photocopy was printed between the white walls and was also a piece of the word "a". One word, another meaning, metaphor garden half bamboo as. This kind of exquisite garden name may only be seen in Jiang Zuoxia Xia Lijing.

The other half of the landscape is naturally stone. During the Jiaqing period, Yangzhou, the most unique and elegantly famous garden, was selected as a resort by salt merchants. There are many kinds of precious bamboos in the quiet place of the hospital, which are worthy of taste, not in the value of the plants themselves, but in the mysteries of the creative setting.

Take a leisurely stroll to tea in the gallery by the water feature. The scent of tea, from the beautiful window to the depths of the bamboo grove at the side of the winding path, subtly rises as the light breeze leaves. The courtyard is deep and the flow of relief is the historical context.

At the window, there is a tea shop. With the spring breeze blowing, you can see the rockery on the base of Taihu Lake. Jade at the top and moss on the bottom. The stacked stone art in Yangzhou emphasizes the unique meaning. Its shape includes wrinkles, leaks, thinness, transparency, show, and ugliness. I am a bit puzzled by the word "ugly" and tentatively asked the old man of tea. The old man laughed and pointed at a mountain rock in the pool with a folded fan. "Do you see that the fake mountain is not beautiful? What kind of character does it look like?" I looked at it carefully, and it turned out to be an "ugly" one. The old man said that beauty is ugly and ugly is beautiful. The key lies in the human vision. After I heard this, I realized a kind of sentiment. At this moment, although the green tea in my hands was pale, I realized my feelings.

The park's rockery mountain scenery is divided into four sections, distributed in four seasons. It is Akiyama that contains philosophy and interest. This mountainous view with red-brown Huangshan stones stacked up is said to be a relic of Shi Tao. Looking closely, there is indeed a bit of Shi Tao's charm of painting Huangshan. Through the process of Akiyama, you will find a way out! Circling up and down, left and right. Sometimes, apparently it seems to be a thoroughfare, but also a short cut. Then he rushed to go, but unexpectedly hit the wall and returned. Sometimes it seems like the end, no way to work, boldly rushed, even if there are caves, even through the "mountain." Under the bright spring weather, the stone wall is engraved with a sip: "It's not through, it doesn't pass through," or the cloud "there's no way to pass the small pass, it's not clear." I chewed it seriously and was deeply impressed.

Walking out of a garden, rock and bamboo still linger in the heart. The beauty of Wei Yang cares about her intrinsic value.

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